Lakin said he played around with combinations of other cuts,Īs is fashionable these days, but found that chuck’s 80/20 ratio of meat to fat works best for him. But it is ground fresh every morning from fresh chuck. To keep the prices low, Edzo’s isn’t using fancy beef it’s commodity stuff from Nebraska. One to satisfy two camps of burger lovers who constantly argue about which style is superior when one is juicy, medium-rare apples and the other is crisp, griddled and greasy oranges. The burgers at Edzo’s aren’t all cheffed-out like some of the sausages at Hot Doug’s - there’s no rattlesnake, duck fat or obscure cheese on the menu - but there is an innovation Iĭon’t recall ever seeing before: Edzo’s serves a four-ounce, griddle-cooked, thin-patty burger and a thicker eight-ounce burger grilled to whatever doneness the customer orders. Lakin has also taken on Hot Doug-like hours, Reformed restaurant cook who realized that a liberal application of love and higher standards could take the already excellent Chicago hot-dog-stand template to new heights. “You know, a place I’d like to eat.” ( Hot Doug’s, for those not in the know, is the Greatest Hot Dog Stand in America, run by a “Like Hot Doug’s, but with burgers,” is the way Not a steakhouse burger, not a gourmet burger, but a great quick-service burger. He decided that what would work best there was a cheap burger joint. He landed a high-ceilinged space in Evanston, not far from Skokie, where, he told me, he ate formative hot dogs and Italian sausages at Herm’s and Big Herm’s, two unrelated places across the road from one another. Last year, after he was laid off, he decided that he’d be better off working for himself. Sort of middle-to-upscale chains that Chicagoans flock to. Before he was an aspiring burger baron, he was a culinary-school graduate who cooked at some big-time spots in Chicago - TRU back before Rick Tramanto was born again, Nacional 27 after that - and rambled around Europe, cooking in Barcelona, Spain, and Bologna, Italy, before settling in to some comfortable consulting gigs for companies that run the The place has been subject to speculation and discussion on the parts of the Internet concerned with Chicago dining for months,Įven though it only opened two weeks ago today.Įdzo is Eddie Lakin, the owner and goateed counterman. I was on a mission to check out a couple of record shops as well as a new spot calledĮdzo’s Burger Shop. Last week, while visiting my hometown, Chicago, I made an afternoon sojourn up to Evanston, which abuts the city’s northern border. Grass Fed features the culinary ramblings of the food writer Peter Meehan, the co-author of the Momofuku cookbook with David Chang and an all-around good eater. Peter Meehan The eight-ounce burger with toppings at Edzo’s Burger Shop.
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